It is impossible to speak of Cairo without acknowledging the ghosts that share the city. To the southwest lies Giza, where the Pyramids sit on the plateau, stoic and immovable against a backdrop of encroaching high-rises. It is a jarring juxtaposition: the ancient wonders of the world staring down the sprawl of a megacity of 22 million people.
You do not just visit Cairo. You survive it, you embrace it, and inevitably, you miss it the moment you leave. It is impossible to speak of Cairo without